KADARKA
If anything in this category can be called a hungaricum the kadarka certainly can. It would really deserve a whole chapter to itself, as Hungarian wine tradition has for centuries been based on this variety. It began to spread over the Balkans with the Turkish occupation of Hungary in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and was considered the dominant black grape in Hungary until very recent years. In its most famous place of cultivation, Szekszárd, even in the 1960s more than half the vines were of this variety. In the face of the heavy-industrial agriculture of the communist period, however, it clung on, and only from the 1970s has the amount cultivated gradually fallen.
KADARKA is firmly established in all the red wine regions of Hungary, preserving its strong qualities. It is therefore no surprise that for centuries it has been the definitive variety, yielding a pleasant wine both as the basis for ‘Bull’s Blood’ or as aszu. In traditional cultivation – although much affected by climate -it possesses excellent, incomparable elements of bouquet and flavour. Its herbiness, high acidity and slightly restrained complex of flavours make it an excellent accompaniment to traditional Hungarian cuisine, in addition to which – especially in ‘thinner’ vintage years – it is eminently drinkable by itself. In outstanding years it is capable of offering a quite remarkably complex taste of chocolate, morellos and paprika. Although this has been for the most part unknown to drinkers of recent years, more and more winemakers are beginning to take this Hungarian variety seriously. It has much greater potential than many winemakers and wine-writers think even today.

KADARKA is firmly established in all the red wine regions of Hungary, preserving its strong qualities. It is therefore no surprise that for centuries it has been the definitive variety, yielding a pleasant wine both as the basis for ‘Bull’s Blood’ or as aszu. In traditional cultivation – although much affected by climate -it possesses excellent, incomparable elements of bouquet and flavour. Its herbiness, high acidity and slightly restrained complex of flavours make it an excellent accompaniment to traditional Hungarian cuisine, in addition to which – especially in ‘thinner’ vintage years – it is eminently drinkable by itself. In outstanding years it is capable of offering a quite remarkably complex taste of chocolate, morellos and paprika. Although this has been for the most part unknown to drinkers of recent years, more and more winemakers are beginning to take this Hungarian variety seriously. It has much greater potential than many winemakers and wine-writers think even today.
For more interesting information:
> Hungarian wines and wine regions (authors: Zoltán Benyák, Tibor Dékány)
> Terra Benedicta 2003: Tokaj and Beyond (authors: Rohály Gábor, Mészáros Gabriella, Nagymarosy András)